Footie Socks

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10 spi Footie Socks

Footie Socks, 10 spi, in Anzula Cloud


The only formula you will ever need to make footie socks for the entire family. Great with clogs, chucks, or for sitting around the house.

Footie Socks, 7, 9, & 6 spi

Footie Socks at 7, 9, and 6 spi in Quince & Co. Tern, Malabrigo Sock, and Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sport respectively.

Yarn: Yarns ranging from fine fingering/heavy lace to DK may be used. You should swatch to obtain one of the specified gauges (6, 7, 8, 9, or 10 stitches per inch). The pattern assumes that your yarn has some bounce and memory, so wool and wool blends are appropriate. If you want to use a different fiber, the pattern may require some trial and error. Samples are shown in Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sport in Farwell, Quince & Co Tern in Kelp, Knitted Wit Superwash Merino Fingering in Silver Lining, Malabrigo Sock in Alcaucil, and Anzula Cloud in Mariana. Please see note for yardage info.

Needles: Any needle size to give you one of the specified gauges (see note).

Notions: 1 split ring stitch marker to mark BOR, 2 regular stitch markers, tapestry needle to weave in ends, crochet hook & waste yarn for provisional cast on.

Sizes: This pattern/formula covers foot circumferences from 6 – 11” (15.25 – 28 cm). You will need to know the wearer’s foot circumference and foot length. A table of foot length for shoe sizes can be found here (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shoe_size)

Footie Socks, 8 spi

Footie Socks at 8 spi in Knitted Wit Superwash Merino Fingering.

Preparation: Swatch to get one of the recommended gauges. Select your foot circumference & your preference for 5% or 10% negative ease. If you are in between sizes you can knit the larger size with 10% negative ease to get a not-too-snug sock. If you want a snugger sock, knit the smaller size with 5% negative ease. Use the Footie Sock Reference Sheet to keep all your important info & measurements for each pair in one place. Download the file here (link opens a .pdf)

Chart 1 is your Target stitch count. Chart 2 is your Cast On Number and will be used when you’re working the heel to make the heel apex. Chart 3 will be used when you have finished the round part of the foot and are ready to start the flat portion as well as the short row rise at the back of the heel.

Yardage Requirements: Yardage will vary depending on yarn many factors, for my 10% negative ease 8” circ and a target length of 9.75” I used 110 yds (6 spi), 165 yds (7 spi), 198 yds (8 spi), 170 yds (9 spi), , 178 yds (10 spi). Your circumference and length measurements as well as your negative ease choice will change your yardage requirements. If you are concerned that you don’t have enough yardage, you can do alternate colored toes and/or heels, or go for a classic look and use a different color of yarn for the ribbing. 35-50 grams of yarn should cover a pair pretty well.

Foot Measurements & Target Foot Length: Foot circumference should be measured around the foot, just below the ball. To get your target foot length and enough negative ease to hold the sock on you need to take your Actual foot length and subtract 1-1.5” (2.5-3.75cm). If you like a very snug footie sock, subtract 1.5” instead of 1”.

Needle Choices: The pattern is written with the stitches divided into two sections: First Half & Second Half. If you are using two circular needles or magic loop, the pattern will not require any interpretation. If you are using 5 dpns, then Needles 1 & 2 = First Half, Needles 3 & 4 = Second Half.

Short Rows: You can use any Short Row Method you want so I have abbreviated WSR for Work Short Row. For instance, if you are using the Wrap & Turn method, WSR is the stitch you would wrap. If you are using the Shadow Wrap method, WSR would be your doubled stitch. Just remember that on following rows you will need to treat your SRS (Short Row Stitch) according to your chosen short row method. For instance, with wrap & turn you would knit your wrap and your wrapped stitch together. For a full discussion on Short Row methods, please visit techknitting or Socktopus.co.uk for Shadow Wraps.

Techniques Used: knit, purl, m1L, m1R, short rows, Stockinette flat & stockinette in the round, ribbing, markers, picking up and knitting stitches from a selvage edge.

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Comments 12

  1. misti wrote:

    Do you have a photo diagram of the different parts of the sock. I am a visual person and am trying to figure out what and where the Sole Flap setup is.

    Thanks.

    Misti

    Posted 05 Aug 2014 at 10:11 PM
  2. Mim wrote:

    I responded via email, but for anyone with the same question, I just created a diagram of the different sock portions. Here you go!

    http://www.miriamfelton.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/FootieSockDiagram.jpg

    Posted 20 Aug 2014 at 4:53 PM
  3. Donna Suits wrote:

    I have a question regarding my footie socks and I am not sure where to post a question. I apologize in advance if this is not the correct forum.

    My sock wants to slip off my heel. I am not sure if that means I need more foot length or more heel rise. I am using a 6 SPI, 48/10/3/2.5. I measured in between sizes so went up to a 9 with a 10% neg ease. I love the pattern and would appreciate input. Thanks in advance! Donna

    Posted 13 Aug 2014 at 3:20 PM
  4. Mim wrote:

    Hi Donna, I would suggest a couple of things. First of all, I’m not sure what bind off you used, but a regular bind off done with the same needles as the knitting usually works the best. You may be tempted to use an extra stretchy bind off, but trust me… try the regular bind off first. It’s the best one me and the test knitters found for it.

    If the problem is that the heel is too short, do some extra repeats of the Heel Rise rows. That will make the heel longer and help it stay up inside your shoes.

    If the length of the heel is not a problem, then consider picking up fewer stitches when you pick up from the side of the sole flap, either that, or decreasing out some stitches from the instep. That will make the whole ribbing area of the sock smaller.

    Once you find the adjustments you need for your own personal socks, make a note of it somewhere! That way you only have to figure it out once :)

    Posted 20 Aug 2014 at 4:56 PM
  5. Kay Belloe wrote:

    I am a short row newbie and I have a question about how to work the second part of the wraps. I did the shadow wraps. After working the short rows how do I do the “knit to SRS, K1?” Do I knit to first SRS, knit it with its wrap and then knit the next wrapped stitch and then turn and do the same thing on the purl side?

    Posted 02 Nov 2014 at 3:25 AM
  6. Mim wrote:

    You treat both daughters together like they are one stitch. I did a tutorial video about shadow wrap short row heels, which you can see here: http://youtu.be/iUR5iCQJuLU

    Posted 03 Nov 2014 at 1:57 PM
  7. Erne wrote:

    Hi,
    I have a footie pattern I made, followed and sewed together. My question to you is – Do you have any ideas or suggestions as to how I could go about to search and find someone with extraordinary talent who can knit my footies using my pattern?

    My next question relates to the problem of bulk manufacturing the footies – if the pattern is too unique to manufacture I may have to settle on making them all by hand which is a problem if I want every woman, man, boy and girl to have a pair I couldn’t possibly make that many my hand!
    Thank you,
    Erne

    Posted 20 Jan 2016 at 7:43 PM
  8. Mim wrote:

    Erne, I have no experience with bulk manufacture. So good luck.

    M

    Posted 21 Jan 2016 at 2:57 PM
  9. Carmen wrote:

    Your shadow row video is not very helpful at all as the camera is turned away from most of it! Nothing can be seen for a lot of it.

    Also you don’t show how a heel fits into a sock and so for a beginner it is as clear as mud. You don’t talk about numbers. It is just someone randomly knitting weird stitches but not showing how they are used or why at all.

    If someone is new to short rows they will be none the wiser after seeing this video. You have just made a little heel thing in total isolation of any meaning or the sock as a whole.

    Posted 27 Feb 2016 at 9:13 AM
  10. Mim wrote:

    Hi Carmen, I don’t understand what you mean when you say “the camera is turned away from most of it”. There is never a moment in the tutorial when the camera isn’t pointed at the knitting.

    I created the tutorials to be a support to my patterns. They’re not meant as full instructions for a sock heel, or a primer on short rows. I do teach classes on short rows and on this footie sock in particular when I travel. But I’m not sure I have what you’re looking for. You might try searching on youtube for something more to your needs.

    Posted 27 Feb 2016 at 1:10 PM
  11. Deborah Jozwik wrote:

    I would like to know how I could make the top of the foot shorter (closer to the toe) to be able to use with the new flats (skimmers). Is this possible with this particular pattern?

    Thank you in advance.

    Posted 02 Sep 2016 at 2:26 PM
  12. Mim wrote:

    Yes, but with the caveat that I haven’t tried it and it might need a bit of tweaking. You would make the straight portion after the toe increases would be shorter than instructed, but your sole flap could be knit until the instructed length.

    But if you do the first one and find it doesn’t fit very well, you might do any or all of the following:
    1. pick up fewer stitches along the sole flap during the Pick Up Rnd.
    2. decrease a few stitches during the pick up round before you do the ribbing.

    Oh, and it’s really REALLY important if you’re doing this mod…. don’t use any bind off but the standard. You’ll think you should do a super stretchy one… don’t. Just don’t do it. The bindoff serves as the last line of defense for the sock staying on. It’s actually important no matter which gauge or mods you’re doing to do a standard bind off, but it’s gonna be especially important for this mod.

    Posted 06 Sep 2016 at 7:45 AM

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